ALLWOOD SIGN BLANKS WESTERN RED CEDAR SIGNBLANKS FOR SANDBLASTING, CARVING, and ROUTING

SANDBLASTING TIPS
We are not claiming to be experts in the actual finishing of signs, so we decided that it would be more appropriate to show you an article that was featured in Sign Builder Illustrated, issue #27.
The following text is a condensed version of this article, which was written by West Jenkins who was sales manager of the Sandblast Division of Anchors Stencils.
 

GETTING INTO SANDBLASTING

SANDBLASTING SIGNAGE: A PROFITABLE ALTERNATIVE

    Sign makers who are looking for a profitable way to expand the styles of signs they offer should consider sandblasted signs. In markets often dominated by one-dimensional vinyl graphics and electrical signage, the multi-dimensional sandblasted signs are distinctly different and very appealing.

MARKET GROWTH

    The re-emergence and growth of sandblasted signage  in the USA has been tremendous and is spreading quickly around the world. No longer considered just for the rustic, woodcraft oriented business, sandblasted signs are found in professional office buildings, resorts, golf courses, hotels, restaurants, and major residential developments.
    Clear heart vertical grain redwood has long been the substrate of choice because of grain definition, and ability to weather well. New restrictions on logging redwood and skyrocketing prices have forced sign blasters to consider other woods, as well as other substrates that are now available for sandblasting. In parts of the USA and in other countries where redwood is not available, another softwood, cedar, is being used.

GETTING STARTED

    Let's take a look at the general process and parameters for successful and profitable sandblasted signage and options for getting started.
    Regardless of the substrate you choose, the process and guidelines for sandblasting are much the same.
    The key to efficient and profitable sandblasting is having the right equipment and materials. Not many sign shops can afford the expensive compressors, pressure pots, and various equipment accessories needed to get started. There are, however, many options available.
  • Option One is to subcontract the blasting phase of the project to a commercial sandblasting operation. That is the most common practice. Note that most commercial blasters are accustomed to working on metal surfaces and brick or concrete buildings. They require higher pressure and coarser grits of abrasive than is needed for wood, glass, etc. If you choose to subcontract your work, it will pay to talk to the blaster and arrange lower pressure and finer abrasives.
  • Option Two is to subcontract your work to a monument or stone blaster. Some monument blasters use metal abrasives for granite blasting and may not use sand. Ask up front for clarification on this. Metal abrasives are fine for many substrates like glass, tile, and acrylics, but not generally recommended for wood.
  • Option Three is to rent the equipment yourself. Safety concerns, shop location, and some regulations on sandblasting may make this option unfeasible.
  • Option Four is to purchase a small self-contained blasting cabinet and blast small signs yourself.

PREPARING THE SIGN BLANK

    Many times, the customer will make the decision of what type of sign substrate to use. If you have samples or photos of different substrates, you may be able to recommend one of these to your customer.

STENCILS FOR SANDBLASTING

    When preparing your sign for sandblasting, the choice of sandblast resist of "stencil" is very important. The type of sandblast stencil most commonly used is a natural rubber compound. These rubber stencils are coated with different types of adhesives for different applications. "High Tack" stencils are coated with an acrylic adhesive for use on raw wood.

    The sandblast stencils come in various thicknesses and computer cut styles. The computer stencils come punched or unpunched for both sprocket fed and friction fed cutters. Most cutters perform better on rubber stencil when using a 60 degree cutting blade instead of the normal 30 degree blade used for vinyl. The thinner 18 mil (thousandths) stencils are used for glass and plastic blasting. The thicker 30 mil stencils are used for wood and stone blasting.

    Once you have the right stencil for your substrate, the application procedure is relatively simple. Always make sure that the sign surface is dry, and free of dust or dirt. If you are using the hand cut stencil, simply peel the easy release liner off the back, and apply the stencil to the sign surface.

    Smooth the rubber out with a vinyl squeegee or your hand to eliminate air bubbles. The stencil should then be rolled down good with a hard rubber brayer or some kind of rolling pin.

    Once the stencil is on the surface, then draw your designs on the stencil and cut them out with an exacto knife. Shops that have computer cutters can use them to cut the stencil. The computer stencil is processed similar to vinyl. Cut it; weed it; transfer it to the sign. You are now ready to have it blasted.

BLASTING

As mentioned earlier, during the blasting phase you should always use the recommended air pressure and abrasive grit for best results. For most wood blasting, 70-80 PSI (on the pressure pot gauge) is sufficient. Recommended sand grit size is a 30-70 mesh, or fine grit.

    Most blasting except for glass etching will require a minimum compressor size of 10 to 15 horsepower. Just remember, it is better to have too much air rather than not enough. A quick reference for determining (CFM) cubic feet per minute required is as follows for an average blasting set-up:

nozzle dia. CFM CFM CFM CFM CFM
1/16" 3.1 3.6 4.2 4.7 5.6
1/8" 12.3 14.5 16.8 19.0 21.2
3/16" 27.5 32.8 37.5 43.0 47.5
PSI 40 50 60 70 80

FINISHING

    After the blasting is done, it is time to finish the sign and install it. On most wood signs, the letters and designs are painted with enamels, while the background is painted with latex, or in many cases covered with an oil based stain. The debate over latex versus enamel is ongoing, however, either will work for your wood signs.

    Installation can be a really tricky part of the job so be very careful when estimating installations of sandblasted signs.

    The sign maker now has good, profitable alternatives to vinyl or electrical signs. Sandblasted signs can give you a unique advantage when bidding on sign jobs. It will take some experimenting and practicing, but you can use some of the test pieces as samples to show your potential customers.
You should contact some of the business developers and architects in your area to let them know what you have to offer. Don't wait until the ground has been broken at the construction site: by then, the signs are already spec'd in — and you are spec'd out.
   
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